Paria Springs Trinidad and Tobago Adventures

A Wet Day of Beautiful Birds

Hi All,

Well it seemed that January was drying out a bit but yesterday (Jan11th) I went out with Ken Archambault wetland birding.  Ken is a bird videographer (he videotapes birds) and is from what I can tell very good at it. 

I met Ken 8am in Trincity at Sadilla House, he decided to pratice his driving on the wrong side (on the left), of which he needed lots of practice.  So I gave directions, persuaded him not to run over people on the shoulder, gave driving tips while shadow dodging potholes (which I was not always not successful at).

Ken is a wonderful chap so we hit it off well instantly.  We first birded the Trincity Sewer Ponds on arrival the sky was very bleak and we had a bit of rain while there, but mostly is was fine.  I had a great time using Ken's new Swarovsky scope to digiscope some birds while he was filming them.   As it was overcast the birds were out and about, both Ken and I got shots of Yellow headed Blackbirds, Yellow chinned Spinetails, Caimans, an Anhinga among others.  Two Ospreys were having a great time fishing as evidenced by the several mostly eaten bodies of tilapia (small fish) discarded in many spots.

Then we decided to go to Caroni Swamp, however on driving out we got stuck reversing in some mud.  With some help, brawn and brain we got out without too much fuss and headed  to Hiway Roti Shop for two duck rotis that were divine. 

For the afternoon we went to waterloo where we could not get out the car because of rain but Ken did get great video of a Southern Lapwing bathing, preening and feeding and some mangrove crabs.  Then onto Brickfield where we birded on the pierre because the rain just would not stop.  We had lots of birds including what would be left as an unidentified juvenile gull that was twice the size of the Laughing Gulls, but the rain made a good look through the scope impossible. 

The evening was spent in the Caroni Swamp where we had a White necked Heron and the Scarlet Ibis were spectacular.   

The Bridge that we built

For those who have departed our shores; just a note to let you know that the bridge on the Lady

Chancellor trail is just fine.  In a show of the government brilliance, the folks at the fire prevention project by Forestry have been clearing 80% of the trail to the bridge except the first 20% of the trail.  So one has to bush whack through razor grass and picker bush to get to the wonderfully cleared trail.  Of course dodging the anoying Pothounds (stray mongrels) at the start of the trail where the bush is worst makes life, well, interesting and bodies with itchy parts.  I will tackle this area in the dry season.

Chris Doyle - Da MAN

In August 06 I took Chris Doyle, Director of the Adventure Travel Trade Association on an adventure tour.  I basically harassed Chris into coming here as I wanted to get the ATTA excited about Trinidad and Tobago as an adventure destination, he agreed to do so and I offered that he could bring his lovely wife Sherrie since he would be away from home for so very long.  The following is an account of some of our activities. 

Chris and I put together a fun tour that would suit both Chris & Sherrie ideas of adventure during which we kayaked to a cave, hiked guanapo gorge, mountain biked Matelot, kayak surfed Grande Riverre, walked through a bat cave, mountain biked across the Northern Range, birded at Asa Wright Nature Centre, snorkeled and kayaked in Speyside and actually had some meetings in between all that.

The first day we started with mountain biking, Sherrie doing the easy country roads that connected the single track that Chris and I did.  They both had a blast as that suited them perfectly.  The trail I took Chris on is Trinidad's only dedicated mountain biking trail; a couple friends and I have been developing it for 3 years now from just a ride down a dry river bed into about 4 miles of single track that is fun and challenging.  Then we kayaked out to Gasparee Island where we entered Gasparee cave, which is full of amazing stalactites, stalagmites and pillars that look like dinosaurs, buddas, and you can actually drum a tune on one.  We swam in the deep green cenote in the middle of the cave.

On the transfer to Grande Riverre we hiked to Guanapo Gorge, the heavens opened and the rain drenched us while hiking.  We still had a great time but I did not allow us to enter the gorge as the possibility of flooding was real with the heavy rain.  Sherrie was fantastic as this was an epic hike for her and she really pushed herself.  In Grande Riverre we stayed at my favorite Trinidad lodge, Le Grande Almandier,

where we rescued hatchling Leatherback Turtles that were attracted by lights in the village even they were made low for the turtles and were going the wrong way.The next day Chris and I headed out to Matelot where we rode to a small and beautiful waterfall, we fed the river prawn there at first with our toes on the small ones, but after using bread we attracted the humungo version with large blue claws. The ride out was some sweet wide single track with lots of roots and rocks, massive bamboos added to the flavor.  Then the afternoon Chris and I traded wave kayak surfing the break right in front Le Grande Almandier; a magical day.

The next adventure was the Tamana Cave, we hiked to the summit first then geared up and entered Tamana Cave, Chamber 1 to thousands of bats, literally.  Sherrie had a fantastic expression plastered on her face; it showed fear, excitement and freaking out at the same time.  The bats were intense but I think it was the thousands of cockroaches that freaked her out most.  After the cave we went to the exit to see the bats flying about us as they exited the cave at dusk to feed. 

The next day was spent birding at the world famous Asa Wright Nature Centre.

Our epic cross country ride was next on the list, well after a night of partying.  The ride started at Caurita on the Northern Range's leeward side and crossed over to the windward coast at Las Cuevas.  We started with wide single track in farm land which quickly became rain forest as we climbed to 2000 feel elevation.  We got to the rest hut a bit slowly but in excellent condition.  We then turned to Las Cuevas and the clouds set in all around us and we had some rain.  The trail then got wicked with a series of tough climbs followed by seriously fun and technical downhills, ending with a long down hill to the beach.  Chris said it was one of his most epic rides ever.   In October I rode Tiger Mountain with some friend outside Seattle and found the trails similar in many ways.

We then headed to Tobago after some more local music and a visit to Brasso Seco.  We Kayaked and snorkeled the beautiful Batoo Bay in Speyside.

For more info on eco adventures in Trinidad and Tobago of birding, hiking, mountain biking, kayaking, caving and anything else contact Courtenay Rooks at rooks@pariasprings.com or check our web site at www.pariasprings.com

Great Black Hawk

While birding in the north western side of Nariva Swamp on Plum Road I was looking at an adult Savanna Hawk on the south side of the road I put down my binoculars to look around when I saw what at first I thought was another Savanna Hawk (SH), which was a bit closer standing on the ground on the north side of the road. It was standing very upright with long legs like a SH.  The first thing I noticed to rule out SH that it was black, not brown, then I saw it was notably larger than the SH since I realized it was actually further away than the SH I was originally looking at.

I got the scope out and got some details:  Its head, neck and breast were mostly black with small spots of brown.  The wings and back were black. 

Legs were pale yellow

Basal half of beak was pale yellow and the front half was black.  The beak was notably larger than Savanna Hawk’s; much more like an eagle, which gave it that stern look of an eagle.

Eyes were brown.

While on the ground I saw it only from in front so I only got glimpses of a large white band on the rump and tail, however it eventually flew and I saw that the basal half of the tail was bright white, then it had a broad black band, and the tail ended with a thin white band.

This was by far my best sights of Great Black Hawk, what a maginificent bird.

Serious Monkey Business

Greta, Dave and I hit Bush Bush in Nariva early this morning to look at monkeys, it started with far too many blasted seriously oversized blood sucking mosquifoots and no monkeys.  After a couple hours we heard a White-fronted Capuchin Monkey (Cebus albifrons), after a 5 minute search we found a beautiful male feeding on the fruit of what seemed to be the Cannonball Tree (Couroupita guianensis) of which I know of no record of any monkey eating that fruit, which can smell foul.  The monkey was very happy and ate without a care, something which will soon be shattered.

After looking we walked off, but had gone only a short distance when several capuchins started screaming as sounds of a serious battle raged, we turned in time to see two monkeys racing after what seemed to be our original monkey.  We jogged after them to get a better look and came upon the three posturing, squeaking and glaring teeth at each other.  Soon two moved near together and were intent on chasing the third.  Of the two, one had a very bloodied ear and was the less aggressive as it was noticeably apprehensive.  I moved a bit to see the third and found it had received wounds also.  Its mouth had blood, which may have come from injury or licking its wounds on its leg which left it limping, close scrutiny showed that its injuries were serious as it had lost a finger.  We studied them for about 10 minutes and they completely ignored us as they were definitely scared to take eyes off each other. 

They moved slowly away in a chess game with serious consequences.  As they disapeared from us were heard more screaming, but that soon died down.

If you look at this photo in the middle is the capuchin whose ear had been bloodied.

The leaf has a blood trail left on it where the monkey who lost a finger had stood.

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Ever seen a frog croak?

Today while kayaking the mouth of the Marianne River with a wonderful couple; Greta and Dave from Washington state, we heard a strange grunting sound.  We investgated and saw splashing near the bank of the river, I got excited thinking it may be a river otter, which is extremely rare, but what I got was my third installment in timeless battle between predator and prey. 

In 1998 I hiked around a corner not more than 100 yards from today's battle to see a Machete (a green and yellow snake) hunting a tree frog, both are disturbed by my appearence and the snake uses the moment to strike the frog dead in the face and the frog croaks, litterally and figuratively as the snake dragged its prey into the bush to dine.  A couple years later I am mountain biking in Chaguaramas to hear this strange call on the side of Tucker Valley road and I see these exact two characters in their deadly struggle.  This time as I investigate the snake drops its prey frightened by my appearence, I am kind of scary looking ;-) 

This time the snake has obviously caught the frog while it was in the river near the bank.  Prey calls repeatedly in a death cry puffing itself up to make it too large to eat as predator drags it into branches.  The predator's grip is strong, in the photo you can see its teeth sunk into the frog's skin but the frog will not give up.  I enter the frey for a desire of modern man; to get the photo.  The predator hesitates for a moment and the frog cheats death in a splash, the snake beats a digusted retreat.  Snake 1 - Frog 2.

Why I have been priviledged to see the epic battle three times I have no clue.  I am both elated that I got the shot but disgsted that I interfered.  I would love to see this truggle continue.

Atypicaly Typical Day

Yesterday was one of those days I seem to have far too often or not often enough, its where the unusual becomes to norm.  So it started typically with family matters; making sure Gabby (my 6 year old daughter) gets ready for school in time and trying to get CJ (my three year old son) not to destroy the house, himself or at least not create a horrific mess.  First he poured himself a large cup of fruit punch juice concentrate - straight up - that he spilled so it looked like he was young Dracula with the red juice all over, then it was an excessively overfilled bowl of cereal, which I took from him, so he took the bag of cereal out the box and a yogurt that he opened enough to create an oozy mess.  At least he didn't do like yesterday and do a huge dump in his pamper that I find out about by dank sewer smell that assaults my nose as we drive out to face traffic dropping him to day care.  He keeps us busy!

Then I collect Dane and head off to Brasso Seco to map an area on Paria Springs Estate where we are creating a jungle camp.  We collect my wonderfully cantankerous friend and Shaman, Cristo, in Arima and hit the Arima Blanchisseuse Road.  Just before Temple Village we hit a blocked road and a protest!  The road had been in crap condition for sometime but a project to repair it made it much worse by adding waves of slushy mud and rocks into the road with each rain.  It seems the government in its infinite wisdom awarded to contract to fix the road to a funeral home!  So the persistent theory was that the massive and unmarked hole was devised to kill drivers and the funeral home would be right on hand to pick up the business!  Everyone agreed it was a good plan. 

Fed up with too many busted mufflers, tyres and other damage the villagers blocked the road.  Of course being a Trinidadian country side protest at Christmas time the burning tyres and rubble, black smoke is mixed with the sounds of Parang (local and lively Christmas music of Spanish origins), Calypso, rum and other unidentified alcohols shared out in cups by the protesters.  One van was especially lively and I take a note not to drive near them. Stuck waiting for the Back Hoe to clear the debris I went to take a look and got sucked into making an interview on CCN News TV to state the obvious - that the road needs some serious fixin. 

So an hour of shit talk and cussin everyone we were the first car over the muddy pass and onto Brasso Seco.  Since we were two hours late and I forgot my shoes, the shoulder strap for the trimmer, my brains and other necessary things we decided just to use the GPS to map the site, which was our primary purpose for being there. 

We successfully mapped the site by making a loop around the perimeter of the cleared area.  Cristo and I are back at the starting place chatting about how we shall develop the site, we walk forward about 3 steps when Dane who is behind us shouts "Shit! That’s not a Macajuel!!!”  (A Macajuel is the local name for our most common Boa Constrictor).  I turn to see Dane hopping on one leg staring wild eyed at the ground in front of him.  He adds excitedly “It’s a Mapipire!!!" (The Mapipire is a Pit Viper that is quite deadly and feared).  So I look at the spot where I was standing less than a minute ago expecting to see a 2 foot snake but a 4 inch tail is sticking out of the 8 inch high shrubs so I now think the snake is 4 feet, maybe.  You see this snake is a prolific breeder, it can give birth up to 50 young at a times, so I often see the young.  However there are lots of snakes, birds of prey and Cappauds (Crappaud is French Patois for our local Marine Toad that is common) that will eat the young, so there are few large adults.  Local folk lore says that the Crappaud get its poison from the Mapipire, this is probably from someone seeing the Crappaud eating a Mapipire. 

I finally spot the head, its HUGE! A chill of excitement runs through me and I am dying to handle it as it is amazingly beautiful, this snake is 6 foot if an inch, its head is the classic diamond shape its belly is a creamy lemon yellow and the back its so cryptic that if you take your eyes off it for a second you have a hard time finding it again.  The feeling is like standing at the edge of a cliff and having a strange urge to jump!  The problem is the possible death part that keeps one from not taking a jump and me from reaching for the snake.  Whoever said death is not a deterrent never looked at it in its beady black eyes and flicking for tongue.  I think if we said the death penalty was now to put convicted criminals in a room with deadly snakes we just may see a decrease in crime.

It looks as scared of us as we are of it, so we use a stick to chase it out the way.  It rattles its tail to tell us to back off but never tries to bite us.  In fact on close (well somewhat close) examination of the head it shows mud on it, I thought this came from the snake looking in holes for prey, but Cristo says he thought that either he or I actually stood on it.  I prefer my theory, his is scarier.  Either way we stood just inches from the nose of a deadly snake that did nothing and we never saw.  It chose to move only after we moved. 

Needless to say after this we checked every blade of grass, rock and branch for snakes after that. Other starange things happened but can't mention those here.

Happy Trails Jeremy

Well at the end of this month we say fair well to a bloddy good bloke, Jeremy Brook, we can only guess at how many trees have sucumbed under his chainsaw while in Trinidad or how many times he gave very vague answers to his lovely wife as to when he shall return from seducing fallen trees.  The number of busted shins are countless, though I think the number of busted derailuers stands at 2.

His chainsaw has cut a wide swath far and wide through areas like Caura, Cuarita, Brasso Santo, El Tucuche, Rincon, Las Cuevas, Paria, Brasso Seco, Rest Hut, Blanchisseuse and much more.  Forever more the trees will tell their saplings; "Don't let the wind blow you over, hold strong!  For if you fall Jeremy Brook will be along to dice you into minute peices!"

We the mountain bikers of Trinidad and Tobago shall miss you Jeremy, for you are truly a bloody good bloke!  Until we meet again, happy trails and muddy rails my friend!